Shop for Cottage Style It's easy to fall in love with Paris. I moved here from San Francisco (remember my earthquake cottage from the premier issue?) and it didn't take me long. Eventually I gravitated to what became my favorite neighborhood: the Marais, where, I discovered the relaxed style of my former cottage in the colorful windows and on the beautifully stocked shelves. This romantic neighborhood of narrow cobblestone streets, Medieval homes, elegant boutiques, and lively outdoor cafes overflows with fun cottage shops. They're more fresh and urban than old and country. Reserve a day for shopping. There are great deals on Paris if you know where to look. Whether you carry your purchases back with you or have them shipped, you'll find some exquisite pieces. Follow my guide through the Marais, and when your day of shopping is done, you'll feel right at home in my adopted neighborhood. Your day begins in the 3rd arrondisement when you emerge from the metro at St. Paul (line 1) or Chemin Vert (line 8). Head straight to Cafe Hugo on the Place des Vosges. Sit outside under the arcade for breakfast overlooking the most beautiful square in Paris. Your first stop is Bensimon Collection at 8, rue des Francs Bourgeois. This large, bright store has a cozy bedroom set up in a white-washed cavern downstairs. Bright pillows and bedding line the walls, quirky lamps perch on shelves, and colorful rugs cover the floors. Continue to number 59, Les 2 Mille Feuilles. This charming boutique feels like a country cottage. Brightly colored fabric fills the rooms, covering furniture and walls. Bolts are cut to order on a large wooden table. At rue des Archives you'll find its sister store, Les Mille Feuilles, spanning the rounded corner of a 19th century mansion. The smell of fresh-cut flowers wafts through crystal chandeliers and glass vases and ceramics are displayed along rustic wooden shelves. For a traditional French bistro lunch, make your way to Place du Marche Ste Catherine, a beautiful square surrounding tall elm trees. You can dine outside at Au Bistrot de la Place. Your next stop is L'Argenterie at 19, rue de Turenne. Antique silverware, trays, tea sets, and serving dishes cram the small store. J.P. de Castro, the owner, buys from hotels, estate sales, and auctions all over France. [Ask for a Poincons guide that dates the stamp back to 1798 and a two page hand-out on the proper way to set a table. "Silverware will always be the most beautiful ornament of the table," it begins. Carrelages du Marais at 46, rue Vieille du Temple is a great place to get ideas for your kitchen and bathrooms. Their beautiful tiles are inspired by 17th century country villas. Continue north on rue Vieille du Temple to Cote Marina (75) and Obeiti (77). These are both cozy, intimate shops with things that are easy to take home -- pretty ceramics, colored glass bottles, napkins and table cloths, and bath accessories. Around the corner at 5, rue des Blancs Manteaux you'll find Reperages Maison, a perfect cottage shop with a slight Asian influence. Glassware and ceramics, vases and pillows in earth tones are displayed along dark wood shelves over bamboo mats. On a warm afternoon nothing feels more French than sipping pastis at an outdoor cafe. What makes Chez Janou (2, rue Roger Verlomme) special is the funky, artsy atmosphere and the drink menu -- including 92 kinds of pastis. Or, for a coffee and something sweet, head over to Le Loir dans la Theiere (3, rue des Rosiers). A wooden hutch in this lively, bohemian restaurant displays beautiful tartes, pies, and pastries. The back room is non-smoking -- a trend you'll start to notice more in Paris. Just off rue Ste Croix de la Bretonnerie you'll find yourself at the northern end of the tiny rue du Bourg Tibourg. At number 30, enter the elegant, world-famous tea shop Mariage Freres. Peek into the cafe with Province-yellow walls and sunlight pouring in through an immense antique skylight. Next stop is Buzz, at 8, rue Tresor, a dead-end pedestrian alley off rue Vieille du Temple. Buzz carries beautiful cottage objects and regularly shows art, furniture, fabrics and accessories designed by local artists. Everything is displayed against a white-washed backdrop with original beams and arches. An unforgettable spot for dinner is Le Dome du Marais at 53, rue des Francs Bourgeois. Originally a large pawnshop dating back to 1777, it was turned into a restaurant in 1981. Reserve a table in the domed dining hall where the auctions took place. For after-dinner drinks, head back to where rue Vielle du Temple intersects with rue Tresor and get a table, preferably outside, at Les Philosophes (28, rue Vielle du Temple). This old-school French bar/bistro is a popular staple of the Marais and the perfect spot to end your day with some people-watching and relaxing -- just one more thing the French seem to have perfected, effortlessly. Marais Means Marsh Explore the Marais The oldest house in Paris (1407) Musee Picasso Centre Pompidou (also called Centre Beaubourg) Maison Europeennee de la Photagraphie Les Enfants Rouges (Outdoor food market) Victor Hugo's House |